Page 51 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 51

Little Bedwyn is a little o  the beaten track. This is a long- standing rural success story that was established over 18 years ago by Sue and Roger Jones (maître d’ and head chef respectively). Awarded its  rst Michelin star in 2006, the successes just keep coming – Roger with Imbibe’s Chairman’s Award for his services to the restaurant and wine industries at The Harrow and indeed around the world and the restaurant voted 48 in the Sunday Times 100 Top UK Restaurants. Let’s see for ourselves...
An intimate restaurant, just over 34 covers – it’s clean, fresh, and smart with a team bursting with knowledge. There are four menu choices – eight, six and  ve-course taster menus, and an eight-course vegetarian gourmet menu.
Service is e cient and it is abundantly clear from the outset that not only are we dealing with gourmet aristocracy but also wine royalty. Roger not only maintains a Michelin star in the kitchen but is also an authority on international a airs of the vine. Something that Feast can sel essly explore on another occasion...
We are fortunate enough to sample the full house, eight courses and we are ready – a bowl of plump olives arrive (the ninth course perhaps?), followed by mulligatawny and grilled sourdough – a subtle curry sip. Little did we know that the next course would be a Feast tour winner – the seared yellow  n tuna seared in Indian spices, the  avours rolling through every soft bite and with a glass of Clemens Busch Riesling
Vom Roten Schiefer 2011, to quote a culinary cliché – it doesn’t get much better than this!
It did.
The White tru e risotto with diver caught scallop was subtle, a perfect balance between the sweet scallop and tru e and the risotto – like velvet! We are blessed with tempura Pembroke lobster and Asian spices, matched with a Chenin Blanc and feel smug in the knowledge that we aren’t even half way...
We move up a gear in our opinion from the lobster, with the turbot – Cornish line caught with Dorset clams and leeks – an absolute joy, fresh,  aky, buttery sauce, and interestingly a Pinot Noir to accompany – just great.
We chat to Sue, other guests, and her team and are thrilled by the Highland beef with an earthy Clarendon Hills Brookman Merlot 2005.
Half our party has the cheese (perhaps the tenth course?) and the rest wonder at the boiled egg and soldier – an outrageously imaginative dessert and we close with a cherry sou é and a sticky glass of Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes 2008.
We wend our way out of Little Bedwyn back to urban reality, planning our next little experience and promise to make it sooner rather than later. It’s just 90 minutes from Poole and we realistically plan to stay in neighbouring Hungerford and get in to that 900 bin wine list of Roger’s!
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