Page 52 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 52

The Wykeham Arms
This atmospheric pub in the heart of Winchester has a neighbourhood heritage to boast about – rubbing shoulders with the cathedral and the 14th century college, the Wykeham Arms has echoes of London’s oldest restaurant, ‘Rules’, in terms of its ambiance, menu, and historic objets d’art.
Before we go any further, we make no excuse for including a restaurant that is part of a signi cant chain of pubs, but with Fullers’ quintessentially English legacy dating back to 1845, this is an experience that sits well within Feast’s reviewing ethos.
Dine in one of several cosy areas on the ground  oor of this cornerstone building; sit at old school desks, butchers’ blocks or larger sociable dining tables in a corner, by the  re, close to the bar or in the restaurant itself.
We chatted at the bar to locals, took friendly advice from the team on our lunch and went with, what we know to be, a signature dish of Cornish Orchards cured trout with salmon mousse, lemon curd, chervil, and lavosh – fabulously rustic, the mouse textured and smoky and the trout cured beautifully.
Two courses sit at the £16 mark – and under £20 for three. The prix  xe menu o ers great value with three varied choices for each course.
However, the most remarkable main without doubt was o 
the à la carte menu; fresh, local, and presented as it would have been throughout the ages – the rack of Dorset lamb with Boulangère potatoes and asparagus. The rack rested well, pink and generous – the earthy lamb melted in the mouth and was adorned with a good layer of ‘just crispy’ fat – this completes the lamb and illustrates an honest chef... alongside the obvious policy of serving only ingredients that are fresh and local. Choose from sea bass, chargrilled courgette, 35- day aged chateaubriand, burgers, and the Wykeham’s own Wyk shepherd’s pie – we’re saving that one for our next visit.
Desserts are traditional; triple chocolate brownie and a good selection of local cheeses.
Today Winchester is a real hub of  ne dining and culture, and has attracted many newcomers, yet the charm of the Wykeham, thanks to many factors, still triumphs.
www.wykehamarmswinchester.co.uk
01962 853834
75 Kingsgate Street
Winchester
Hampshire SO23 9PE
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