Page 17 - Yeovil Feast Magazine

Bulrush
Bulrush is a unique and unusual restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Bristol city centre and unusual in terms of its quirky and relaxed environment. It’s a narrow building with two oors. The intimate ground- oor bar serves cocktails, local beers, and ciders and has an informed view of the focussed kitchen, run by owner-chef George. His partner Katherine is front of house and just goes with the ow – it’s the sort of bohemian environment that one would expect to nd in Byron Bay perhaps?
Drinks are accompanied by parsnip and spirulina crisps with goat’s cheese and wild leek, as attentions turn to the menu, which is simple like our private alcove of a dining area (where we occupy the only table). There are just four starters and four mains on the main menu, so we elect to go with the seven-course taster menu, as it showcased all the dishes well and represented good value for money.
We are away with an oyster with buckthorn granite – a succulent oyster with the coastal- lled avours of the granite making a super combination, down in one and onto the soup of the day, a deeply avoured cauli ower soup. These portions are just right and we are con dent that we will make the seven courses!
Then a dish that demonstrates George’s versatility: mackerel, yuzu miso, crème fraîche, apple and kohlrabi – sashimi in style and an exceptional mix of avours – fruit from the apple, savoury from the kohlrabi, and a salty miso.
And as the evening owed so did the wine. Taking a lead from our guest, the brand ambassador of Averys, we enjoy throughout the evening: Argiolas Vermentino de Sardegna
2014 Clos de Gravillas, delicious with the oyster and mackerel, Rendevouz Sur La Lune Domaine de Brunely, which perfectly cut through, and enhanced, the short rib, and a Vacqueyras 2011 Akashi Tai, Umeshu, the sensational plum liqueur – all fabulous choices and intellectually food paired.
Back to the dinner and when pig’s head is published on a menu, all sorts of thoughts race through one’s mind, of avour and more so presentation, however, the Bulrush pig’s head was far more delicate on both counts than one would have ever presumed.
The short rib and bone marrow mash with shallots and a shallot purée was a real highlight, the distinctive umami bone marrow avours drifting through the mash and setting o the fatty, but so very avoursome, short rib.
Two desserts to follow and the superior of the two was the rum baba with blood orange.
We did make the seven courses without too much belt buckle e ort and re ect on a really interesting gastronomic journey.
We hear that the menu changes regularly with season and catch and that there are exciting plans for a private dining room upstairs. We look forward to watching this Bulrush grow to re ect its eclectic menu.
www. bulrushrestaurant.co.uk
0117 329 0990
21 Cotham Road South, Bristol, BS6 5TZ. 17