Page 35 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 35

Hartnett Holder & Co at Lime Wood Hotel
There are in fact two wonderful dining propositions at Lime Wood; the highly regarded Hartnett Holder & Co under the watchful eye of Angela Hartnett and Raw & Cured, the feel- good food bar in the Herb House Spa, with Sheila Hulme at the chopping board. On this occasion we are focussing on Hartnett Holder & Co in the impressive hotel itself.
It’s all about the detail isn’t it? We are relieved of our car (an Audi, obviously) with glee, by door sta  and make our way through to one of the many lounge and snug areas surrounding the hotel’s central orangery bar. With a bottle of Champagne and a selection of nibbles we deliberate and perhaps not so discreetly peep over our generous menus to see who else may be dining with us.
Recce complete, we concentrate on the job in hand; there is an interesting sharing menu at £65 per person with two choices of wine  ight at either £55 or £95 per person, tempting, but the à la carte calls. Also, the seasonal menu, while succinct, has some appealing o erings.
Orders taken we make our way to a lovely window table overlooking the terrace, pond, pergola, and luxurious Pavilion accommodation.
We have a number of sta  looking after our table of four, and that causes a little quiet confusion behind the scenes, which is not a problem for us as we happily enjoy the bread and look forward to our starters.
The pumpkin tart is delightful; a slice of perfection and the pastry fell apart in the mouth. The ham hock terrine is a really generous serving – and robust enough to eat with a knife and fork – a proper, textured and satisfying starter! The salmon gravlax with pink grapefruit was refreshing and aromatic. The starter to complete this course was from the main ‘primi’ menu and is a dish that can also come as a main. The risotto – ‘cacciucco livorno’ a Hartnett Holder favourite – and on this occasion a Tuscan seafood stew at £10. And yes, a signature dish – the risotto is perfectly al dente and rich.
We have a bottle of Collio DOC Friulano Schiopetto 2013 – and are happy with our Italian choice at £54 – salute!
The hake with Jerusalem artichoke and Café de Paris hollandaise was  rm,  aky, and sweet and the sauce decadent.
The loin of Dartmouth red deer with faggot, artichoke, and horseradish at £30 comes as a hearty main, rare, rustic, and complete with a side of broccoli, chilli, and Parmesan.
The restaurant surrounds a bar that is adorned with Serrano ham, cheeses, and exotic drinks. We ask sommelier for two dessert wines to go with the mulled wine poached pear with spiced rice pudding and to accompany the cheeseboard, we are given a delightful Chateau Guiraud, Sauternes and a QDR LBV Port 2011...
We are happy, as only one can be at Lime Wood, it is special, a treat and every element of the hotel emits a certain standard, and Hartnett Holder & Co equally so. 02380 287177
Beaulieu Road, Lyndhurst, Hampshire, SO43 7FZ

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