Page 37 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 37

The Terrace is an oasis of tranquillity, perfection, formality and  ne,  ne dining.
Step out of the bustle of day-to-day life, take a deep breath, and... relax, everything will be taken care of from here on in.
It’s a noble wood-panelled room with a cloistered area facing out to the beautiful mature gardens where crisp linen, sparkling glassware, and precision cutlery await under subtle lighting, alongside a level of etiquette that is rarely experienced these days.
All of the tables are positioned so that no diner’s line of sight intrudes upon another, the  oor plan is designed with discretion, and guest privacy is a priority. This is one of the factors that makes one almost feel like you are the only table in the restaurant, this along with the acute attention paid to every detail by every one of the sta .
There are a couple of menu choices that are outlined clearly by our waiter; a ‘surprise’ tasting menu of  ve courses from the day’s best seasonal produce, the ‘signature’ tasting menu including some of the dishes that The Terrace has become most well known for, including the scallops and Hampshire beef with smoked mashed potatoes, and an à la carte of  ve choices within each of the three courses, at a prix  xe. We agree to order accordingly.
We are treated to a carpaccio of beef as an amuse-bouche – perfectly seasoned and an indication of treats to come.
Starters include caramelised veal sweetbreads, Autumn tru e risotto, and raviolo of late season Woodside Farm lamb with roasted onions and a rosemary-scented broth. This is unusual and a delicacy on arrival – subtle broth at the base of the proud raviolo,  lled with  aky, rich lamb meat and the impeccable pasta... just perfect. It’s accompanied by a lesser spotted Chateau Mont-Redon 2014 Châteauneuf-du- Pape Blanc that had a crisp fruity introduction followed by a smooth bright  nish, which also worked particularly well with the (light) ragout of Shetland cod with autumn vegetables, white beans, hazelnuts, and mushrooms.
A bottle of clean and simple Charles Joguet Cuvée Terroir Chinon accompanies our mains of roast saddle of Alresford roe deer with parsnip purée, glazed beetroot, and crisp brisket croquette; and stunning slow-poached Newhaven monk sh with grilled lettuce (something that should feature more as a standalone accompaniment), crispy potato terrine with smoked bacon – but not in a rasher way – in a slow-cooked pork way – an absolutely wonderful combination with a red wine sauce.
The cheese trolley was beckoning on arrival, so a number of cheeses are indulged in before dessert. The classic custard tart with poached Yorkshire rhubarb, and rhubarb and yoghurt sorbet’s good looks,  avours and textures are adored with a Château Petit Vedrines Sauternes 2011. We conclude with a tiny taste of perfection, a canelé  avoured with rum and vanilla with a soft and light custard centre.
This is a real experience, and of a quality that should be savoured – take your time, enjoy the formality as there are few places delivering such properness.
It seems that more recently the opinion of those in the know has changed towards the Terrace. It is a shame as it is as faultless and remarkable as it has ever been – one can only assume that a number of factors outside the kitchen in uenced the crucial meal as the Feast experience was perfectly on point...

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