Page 43 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 43

36 on the Quay
A lovely ‘restaurant with rooms’ on Emsworth Harbour, it is clean cut and precise in both presentation and service.
The restaurant is bright and smart, and will host 50 for a private function alongside an intimate dining room for 12 that is very popular, as 36 on the Quay really lends itself to celebrations of all types. There are also four en-suite rooms overlooking the harbour or the millpond for those wanting a relaxing gastronomic break.
Everything is very ‘in order’ at 36 on the Quay, and dinner is executed with polite and professional precision.
The à la carte o ers two courses at a touch under £50 and three under £60 – so the ideal way around this is to increase budget and go for the taster menu and get a real cross section of the kitchen’s capabilities and experience.
An incredible journey through eight courses both visually and gastronomically, starts with a monk sh carpaccio and a soy dressing – a unique look – delicate  avours and textures.
Then follows chickpea chips with a curry purée and bread pillows with cream cheese, mushroom powder and black seeds – both quite exceptional and the bread pillows unlike anything on the Feast tour – parcels of salty cheese – mushroom powder – every savoury sensation...
The cod  llet with lobster quinoa, marinated chive courgettes, sweet corn nibs, lobster carpaccio, and a shell sh bisque is not only a work of art visually it has it all – crisp, soft, succulent, and again a range of  avours that marry perfectly.
The aged beef sirloin – is a combination of pickled beef tartare, sticky braised oxtail, butter fondant potato, wild mushrooms, horseradish purée, and baby parsnips. We love to see oxtail on the menu in any form, this was rich, the tartare melt in the mouth.
We enjoy foie gras and also spiced lamb with pickled carrot and pu ed quinoa – beautifully spiced.
There is a wine  ight that one can choose to go with the taster menu – we took wines by the glass, virtuously three glasses each (rather than the eight) and a 50ml of 2013 Coteaux du Layon ‘Carte d’Or’ Domaine des Baumard and 2013 Paul Cluver Noble Late Harvest Riesling, Elgin to accompany the desserts – loganberry and white chocolate – a fabulous combination.
The desserts evoke a sense of childish adventure and even something as ‘normal’ as local strawberries and vanilla custard tart with a strawberry gel and Champagne sorbet is something else.
This restaurant sets itself apart – in terms of quality,  avours, and its almost academic approach to dining.

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