Page 5 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 5

Tucked away in dreamy Evershot, on the Dorset and Somerset border, Summer Lodge is everything that its name evokes. It’s an environment that pleases; it elegantly delivers a certain standard that is a rare commodity in today’s dining fraternity. The ethics of respect, formality, and perfection are gratefully partnered at every stage of the Summer Lodge dining experience.
For those who have previously fraternised Summer Lodge it is no news to you that the uniformed greeting is jolly and personable, the actual building – a Georgian listed house – has a warmth and it feels like home. Our advice at this stage is to secure an overnight booking and make the very most of everything that Summer Lodge has to o er.
Alternatively, book for lunch, dinner – or a quintessentially British, and famous, afternoon tea and Sunday lunch makes perfect sense.
The restaurant is sumptuous. In fact the whole environment is sumptuous, deep plump cushions, carpets, and wall textiles.
Charming sommelier Eric Zweibel, who has been at Summer Lodge since 2004, is invariably on hand to assist in ‘a most delicious tour’ in terms of wine choices from the impressive cellar that he has created.
Relaxing drinks by the  re, stunning canapés of pheasant soup, smoked salmon mousse, and arancini with sun-dried tomatoes and olives and we make our way through to the restaurant.
Feast has visited repeatedly over the years and Summer Lodge’s head chef, Steven Titman, is a constant, as is the precisely pressed linen and St George’s cross of red ribbon and attentive table service...
We have the choice of tasting menu, but the à la carte presents some irresistible dishes to focus on over a bottle of Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin La Princée 2013 and repeated baskets of olive and thyme, cheese, sun-dried tomato and herbs, and onion breads.
We are treated to a Blue Vinney foam – so elegant – the strong salty blue cheese  avour taken down a few levels, to a thoughtful hint. The Burgundy suited the majority vote in starters of gateau of Portland crab – mutually adored by all,
the carpaccio of Somerset beef is marbled, slivers of beef that gently pull apart to touch and dissolve on the tongue.
A bottle of Henri Germain Meursault Clos de Mouches 2011 pinot noir maintains a fresh quality alongside the soy infused Exmoor venison loin and the roast loin of Dorset lamb and braised shoulder ‘shepherd’s pie’ – all of the mains are self-su cient, no sides are necessary, and our welfare is repeatedly checked.
We are greeted by one of the Feast tour heroes in the form of the Summer Lodge cheese trolley. Our table is split – cheeses are discussed and the pistachio mousse is ordered – incredible on the eye and, equally so, to eat with a stu ed Medjool date, orange blossom and honey ice cream. Eric recommends a glass of Boeckel Riesling Vendanges Tardives 2006, a fabulous partner to the citrus of the orange blossom and honey.
We enjoy splendid co ees, say our farewells, and leave in the knowledge that next time we visit Summer Lodge, amid our daily change and uncertainty, it will be comfortingly familiar in every way, apart from the ever-changing menu...
Summer Lodge

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