Page 54 - Poole Audi Feast Magazine Edition 2
P. 54

The Greyhound on the Test
There are three reasons for visiting the Greyhound on the Test; the gastro pub, the boutique rooms, and the ‘can’t do enough team’. This 16th century pub with elaborate rooms is virtually perfect! Set on the high street in Stockbridge its name is a re ection of its involvement in hunting in the 1800s, and its riverside welcome be tting of a  ve-star hotel.
The Greyhound likes to  t in with you, your table is ready – so have a drink at the bar, in the winter months by the roaring open  re, or in the summer by the river.
Have a read of the menu, wine list and talk to the team.
A little of the owner, Lucy Townsend, her name comes up repeatedly; originally a pastry chef with a who’s who of the 90s, Hotel du Vin (a clear in uence on the Greyhound’s overnight hospitality), Australia, then her own UK-based Miller’s Collection, today a proud  ancée, mother, and, since 2013, owner of the Greyhound.
We are issued a warning about getting carried away with the tempting ‘on toast’ pre-starters and ignore it accordingly – who could refuse from the doorstep, or indeed river bank, Test trout, lemon, horseradish, and crème fraîche on toast, and Dorset crab with leek and basil on toast, with a glass of Percheron Chenin Blanc Viognier from the Western Cape – a great way to kick o  a warm, friendly, and relaxing evening at the Greyhound.
Starters arrive after a leisurely break and into the bu alo carpaccio, with tomato, celeriac remoulade, and pine nuts – it is good to see an alternative to beef, bison is a leaner more  avoursome meat that lends itself to carpaccio. The gin and tonic cured Test trout with crème fraîche and cucumber and dill emulsion was a picture, beautifully presented, and beautifully cured.
A bottle of Villa Wolf Pinot Noir from Pfalz, Germany at just under £24 sees us through the starters, and mains.
The grilled cod with ham hock croquette, braised gem, peas, mint, and sea vegetables was a superb dish – many elements that all came together with the  aky cod, minty peas – with a side of chips a classy and interesting take on a traditional favourite.
The smoked haddock and prawn kedgeree, mango and coriander crowned with a perfectly poached egg was
substantial, thoughtfully spiced and could be ordered as a starter or main...
As its history would dictate, there is a good choice of meat, game, and sharing boards.
Unsurprisingly the earlier warning wasn’t heeded, and we can only manage one dessert to share! The dark chocolate mousse, caramelised banana, salted caramel, cocoa, and hazelnuts hits the spot – salty chocolate dishes can go horribly wrong and this was a great balance – chef is on the mark at the Greyhound, illustrated by many highlights during our evening.
We then retire having elected to stay the night, past the honesty corner, of little things overnight guests may need – very thoughtful which is a theme that runs throughout the whole Greyhound experience, honest and thoughtful. The service is just lovely, nothing was too much trouble, and that was during dinner, and breakfast.
We leave wanting to visit in each season – which we plan to do – it’s a fabulous restaurant and some.
Lucy has also spread her love to ‘Wilds’ outside catering – so you can enjoy this special dining experience at an event and location of your choice – what a delicious idea.
01264 810833
31 High Street, Stockbridge, Hampshire, SO20 6EY

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