Page 12 - Yeovil Feast Magazine
P. 12

Little Barwick House
Tucked away in East Somerset just south of Yeovil, this family- owned and run ‘restaurant with rooms’ is just super. The welcome is warm – as is the plush lounge where aperitifs are appreciated in front of an open  re. We enjoy Kia Royals with hot turbot goujons, cheese straws, and roasted cherry tomato and olive short bread with a basil mayonnaise, and peruse the menu to a backdrop of family photographs, bookshelves, crackling wood, and subtle, homely smoky scents.
The restaurant is in two parts and includes a 12-cover function/party room set o  the main dining room, which looks out over the beautiful three-acre gardens.
Owner, and delightful maître d’, Emma Ford is charming and infectiously passionate – and talks through the Little Barwick story from 2000, her family, and her husband, chef Tim, and younger son sous chef Olly with enthusiasm. Another passion of the Ford’s is wine and Little Barwick is now one of the only small and privately owned restaurants in the country that operates the Le Verre de Vin ‘wine preservation system’, allowing guests to enjoy exceptional and rare wines and Champagnes by the glass.
The starter of ravioli of smoked chicken and tarragon with lightly smoked Isle of Wight sun blushed cherry tomatoes and bok choi is stunning. The al dente pasta and subtly smoked chicken is well paired with a bottle of Shaw and Smith M3 Vineyard Adelaide Hills, 2012 Chardonnay, as is the Dorset Blue Vinney cheese sou é with wild rocket, pear, and walnut salad – the sou é even and delicate and the saltiness of the Blue Vinney setting the classic dish o  perfectly. The
paupiette of Cornish lemon sole stu ed with Kynance Cove Cornish crab and lobster sauce is remarkable on the plate and palate.
A bottle of Chateau de Beaucastle, 1996 Chateauneuf du Pape accompanies roasted saddle of wild roe deer (cooked as rare as Tim saw  t – con dently rare and very tender) with braised red cabbage, beetroot purée, and rosti potato. The  llet of Ruby Red Devon beef with a shallot purée, wild mushrooms, and a red wine sauce also cooked to perfection – other choices include Cornish hake and veal sweetbreads.
A last bottle of Chateau Vieux Telegraph, 1996 Chateauneuf du Pape alongside dark chocolate fondant with peanut ice cream, peanut praline, and caramel sauce a  nal highlight, of what was a highly memorable and enjoyable evening.
The lesser-spotted cheese trolley – a comprehensive selection of cheeses with a fair share from the UK including Hampshire Tunworth – as ever, is a real pleasure, as is a meal at Little Barwick House. It’s like dinner with your best friends as hosts in their own sumptuous home and at the end of the evening with Emma and Tim that is inevitably what it becomes...
Prices for two and three courses are at the higher end of the spectrum, but the standards here make a dinner of £41 and £49 great value. And as quoted in the visitor’s book, ‘a beautiful retreat, homely and chic thank you’ – we couldn’t have put it better ourselves!
01935 423902
Barwick Village, Nr Yeovil, Somerset, BA22 9TD.

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