Page 13 - Yeovil Feast Magazine
P. 13

A popular and charming eatery in Beaminster’s central square. Take Brassica any way you like – a quick drink and charcuterie, lunch or more elaborate dinner. Liken the environment to a chic teahouse. It’s suitable for all, comfy and bustling, even midweek at lunchtime. Books adorn the windowsills – ‘Where Chefs Eat’ and other culinary relevant literature, one could easily dine here alone and feel totally at home.
It’s popular; Feast booked on the day and secured the last table for lunch – thankfully! The Brassica team is somewhat a collection of celebrities in their own right and we were looked after by Kate Reeves, front-of-house manager – her air of control is reassuring.
The menu is changed daily by chef-director Cass Titcombe and after considering the sharing plates we elect to go with starters and mains, albeit choosing from both the à la carte and prix  xe menus. Nothing is too much trouble, smiling service – this is a happy restaurant – from team to table.
The smoked eel and anchovies with buckwheat blini, apple, and horseradish was a great choice. Eel is a rarity today, it was lightly smoked, tender, and the whole dish pleasantly piquant. Roasted pumpkin bruschetta with pickled chillies and mint – another less published dish – was bright, full of autumnal  avours, and welcome during the week following Halloween! Now we come on to one of the most stimulating dishes that Feast can remember; the spiced venison with Puy lentils and preserved lemon. It had a perfect level of heat, deep  avours, and an African in uence – although Cass describes his inspirations of a modern European origin.
On chatting with chef he says: “I like to use every inch of a cut of meat, there’s no waste, the venison was on the menu this week and I made today’s tagine style main with the cuts that lent themselves to slow cooking.” The dish was sublime.
The orecchiette was sadly o  the menu due to earlier demand. However, a spaghetti and vine tomato substitute was immediately suggested; it was al dente and full of Italian  avours. The baked apple with apple ice cream and shortbread came without the shortbread, but nevertheless was bursting with mulled  avours.
A lovely lunchtime with a concise, and as one would expect, relevant wine list by the glass, carafe, and bottle. As we depart, a shop next door catches our eye. On further investigation – Brassica retail, we meet director Louise Chidgey and we chat while perusing the deli items and books.
The team, restaurant, and shop are all charming. What a super way to spend a relaxing lunch (or dinner), with friends over a top-class meal averaging £17 a head, (before drinks) – you can’t go wrong. Delightful.
01308 538 100
Beaminster, Dorset, DT8 3AS. 13

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