Page 31 - Yeovil Feast Magazine
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10 Castle Street
Any address including the number 10 means business. Include the word ‘castle’ and this exclusive ‘restaurant come country club’ is as opulent, exclusive, and fashionable as its name suggests.
Discreetly tucked away on the edge of Cranborne Chase, the 40-acre site is magni cent. Formerly Cranborne Lodge, the Grade II listed country mansion has a colourful past dating back to the 18th century.
Today lorded over by the no less colourful Alex and Gretchen Boon (of Tollard Royal’s King John and Museum fame) 10 Castle Street is set to up the stakes in terms of dining and hospitality in Dorset.
The Pillar Bar is attractive and adorned with bottles, beers, and very e cient sta . There are open  res in the winter with tales of hunting and  shing, and manicured grounds in the summer hosting Champagne-fuelled garden parties and al fresco dining.
The wine list is explicably elaborate as Alex ‘does’ wine, very well and the cellar boasts an extensive international choice, punctuated with many exclusive own-label wines.
The restaurant is ‘David’ in size and ‘Goliath’ in delivery. Chef has a good provenance from some of the area’s most popular restaurants and the menu is a combination of country and coast, as one would expect; the apple-smoked hen-duck, pomegranate, chicory, and clementine for example – delicate and pink. The white crab, toast, and brown bisque provided an evocative taste of the tide with the bisque on the side to pour generously over the crabmeat – cracking! Other starters to select from – perhaps half a dozen oysters to share? Chalk stream trout niçoise and quail’s egg or beef carpaccio?
To the main event and Angus steaks with chips, salad, and béarnaise – honest choices alongside whole squab pigeon, garden vegetables, and redcurrant jelly – this was a  ddly
dish but we do love to get involved. The Venison haunch, horseradish gnocchi, and forest mushrooms was rounded, rural, and agreed served pink as chef recommended...
The restaurant has a great atmosphere and thanks to the private members’ club who knows who will be at the next table? There is a party size function room/chef’s table in front of the kitchen and a choice of lounges in which to relax.
The private members’ club allows use of the  rst  oor and uber classy bar and separate lounge, alongside preferential accommodation rates in the nine bedrooms (more sleeping space is planned in 2016 by way of pods adjacent to the swimming pool development).
But we digress – very easy to do with a chat to the owners and a look around the di erent areas in which to entertain. We haven’t even considered desserts; chocolate delice and pistachio ice cream – the ice cream some of the best in Feast’s experience and apple mousse and lemon thyme evenly balanced with bittersweet precision. The citrus tart and three berry ice cream was beautiful and the tart itself, fresh from the pastry chef, was superb. Then back to the bar for digestifs and talk of wining, dining, and our next visit.
Even in its early days 10 Castle Street feels established. It feels like it has been entertaining and impressing for years – which of course it has in spirit and now in real terms it o ers an exceptionally high-end proposition. What could be more fun than booking a table, mixing with the stars, staying the night, and being the King of your very own Castle, even if it is for just one day! One could get royally used to this...
01725 551133
10 Castle Street, Cranborne,
Wimborne, Dorset, BH21 5PZ. 31

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