Page 36 - Yeovil Feast Magazine
P. 36

The golden rule of reading a menu is, “If you can’t pronounce it, you can’t a ord it.”
FRANK MUIR 01202 283000
10-14 Banks Road Sandbanks
Dorset, BH13 7QB
Rick Stein
Rick’s name alone conjures up multisensory expectations – a rustic waterfront environment, hearty seafood, the catch of the day and Rick of course, in the kitchen chatting through his latest Asian inspirations. Hold it there. Let us bring you back to reality, the brand new Rick Stein restaurant on Poole’s Sandbanks peninsula is decked out in ‘designer’ rather than ‘distressed’, the menu presents ‘haute’ rather than ‘hearty’ and a good proportion of the  sh drives up from the West Country thanks to head o ce ‘mussel’ (literally) and economies of  sh scales... This is a very clipped and slick business and one that almost contradicts what we have learned to expect from the charming Cornishman.
The entrance is glamorous and guests are welcomed by a lounge area, brasserie dining, and a long bar. This is an area that could be found in any new dining establishment and if not for the Stein merchandise and bookshelves, at this juncture, there is little to give away who operates through this keyhole.
The team is busy in an e cient way, menus, drinks, and explanations as everyone wants to know if Rick will be at the stove this evening – no, he’s on site around once a month leaving his Poole team to  y the  ag for lunch and dinner seven days a week.

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